"Girls! Pentagram of Death!" --"Pride and Prejudice and Zombies"

Jane Austen Festival 2014, Part 2: Archery, Fashion Show, Workshop, & Links

Hi, Everyone!

Without further ado, PART 2 of the Jane Austen Festival, held in Louisville, KY, USA:

ARCHERY
The archery demonstration included a lecture on the purpose of archery clubs.  Archery events were another opportunity (in addition to dances) to socialize--and flirt.  They provided another venue for increased equality and skill for women, as well as an opportunity for exercise and gambling.  While a tournament could include up to 6 miles of walking, the social or club atmosphere was also a high priority: some clubs met for years without ever drawing a bow!

Note the costumes: Archery clubs had strict clothing requirements, down to the shade of green fabric used in one's clothing.  A feather in the cap was also required, for the purpose of the outfits was to emulate Robin Hood, who was very popular.  The founder of one club got fined for neglecting to have his cap-feather...

REGENCY STYLE SHOW

The schedule of Events for Sunday also included a wonderful fashion show:

I took a lot of pictures of the fashion show.  Most ensembles consisted of a dress with a lovely removable jacket on top, so it was like we got to see each model in two different outfits.  The lecturer, Betsy Bashore, created her dress patterns from museum pieces and fashion plates.  She helpfully provided construction tips for interested crafters.  Her website provides images of original garments as well as patterns.

Some of our favorites:

 

 

An interesting thing I learned during the presentation was that many of the dresses and bonnets in the Regency period were made from saris. Indian fabrics (and shawls) were a prized import at that time. The colorful sari prints were transformed into beautiful Grecian or Roman-style dresses, and the embroidered edging could be turned into an accent at the hem or waist.

BREASTKNOTS

In the afternoon, I took a workshop on "Regency Breastknots" with Julie Rockhold.  Her blog, "The Fat Reenactress," can be found here.

"Breastknots" also known as "nosegays," "tussie-mussies," "corsages," and "posies," are basically beribboned bouquets.  During the Regency period, breastknots were usually made from real or artificial flowers that were sewed together into a cluster and decoratively displayed on a ribbon base.  Additional decorative elements like fruit or nuts were often included. 

 

Here are a few of the images from the workshop handouts (unfortunately I do not have sources):

 

These floral arrangements were frequently worn as accent pieces near one's cleavage or at one's waist, but they could also be seen as the accent piece in a hat, or even carried in one's hand like the bouquets we see today.

Here's an example of hat decorations, from a Bingley's Teas recipe card:

Julie read us a passage from a letter Jane Austen wrote to her sister, Cassandra, from Bath.  In the letter, Austen remarks on the prevalence of flowers and fruit as accessories:

Flowers are very much worn, and fruit is still more the thing. Elizabeth has a bunch of strawberries, and I have seen grapes, cherries, plums, and apricots. There are likewise almonds and raisins, French plums, and tamarinds at the grocers', but I have never seen any of them in hats. A plum or greengage would cost three shillings; cherries and grapes about five, I believe, but this is at some of the dearest shops. My aunt has told me of a very cheap one, near Walcot Church, to which I shall go in guest of something for you.

--Queen's Square, Sunday (June 2, 1799)

For those of you who are "Pride and Prejudice" (and Lady Catherine de Bourgh) fans, I will include one other passage that I found in this set of letters, on the accommodations in Bath:

I have a very nice chest of drawers and a closet full of shelves -- so full indeed that there is nothing else in it, and it should therefore be called a cupboard rather than a closet, I suppose.

--13, Queen's Square, Friday (May 17)

The piece I made in the workshop:

When worn:

SOUVENIRS
We were pretty tired and warm  by the end of the day, but I couldn't leave without getting some souvenirs!

This bag wasn't technically a souvenir, but I loved the humor.  In case you aren't familiar with "books" and "bookstores," this bag helpfully fills you in on both:

 

 

 

A Jane Austen mug, which features the pivotal declaration letter from "Persuasion" (my favorite Jane Austen novel):

 

The Festival T-Shirt--I couldn't resist!

I also picked up a few of these fun magnets. 

COSTUMES

I wanted to show you a few more shots of two of the costumes I wore.

First, the outfit I wore to the festival: A short-sleeved dress, with a blue over-robe.  White, cotton dresses were reserved for labor, because they could be washed and bleached.  Strongly-dyed or embroidered fabrics were more expensive, so they were usually reserved for accent pieces or evening gowns.

 

I had always wanted a walking outfit like Elizabeth Bennet's, complete with her short Spencer jacket.  This is my attempt at one.  I wore it over the same dress:

Another interesting thing that I learned about Regency dress-making was the fact that most sleeves were detachable.  Ladies could easily unpick the sleeves from their dresses and create an entirely new outfit, or turn a winter dress into one for summer.

My Spencer jacket without the long sleeves:

BONNETS 

For my mother's hat, I added a tube of the green fabric from her blouse/jacket to a pre-made sunhat:

Here she is, in front of the perfect banner:

 

My own bonnet was a little more complex.  I pleated white fabric around the brim of the sunhat, and then I stitched the top edges of the tube together (from the inside) and tightened the seam until it created this pouch look. 

The rosette is made from the lacey ribbon that I'd used as the ties for both hats, as well as some ribbon scraps from the blue dress that I'd cut up to make my over-robe.  I knotted together several loops of the ribbon to create a messy flower.  I bound the long tail of the rosette around the pleated brim, and tacked my new "hat band" down. 

 

BONUS CAT PICS!

While I was photographing my bonnet, Rio decided that the bonnet suited him much better.  Too cute!!

 

LINKS

I wanted to include the links to some wonderfully informative websites that I found online while I was researching Regency dresses. They include some beautiful images of museum pieces, as well as some helpful patterns.

 

Regency Fashion:

 

Detachable Sleeves

 

Men's Breeches, Pantaloons, and Trousers

 

Patterns:

 

Spencer & Pelisse Patterns

 

Regency Gown Pattern

 

 

If you'd like to see more pictures from the 2014 Jane Austen Festival, Kathy Cummings provides some great detail shots of the various workshops and activities here.

 

We had such a good time!  I can't wait for another opportunity to obsess about Jane Austen!

Jane Austen Festival 2014, Part 1: Shoppes, Punch & Judy, and TEA!

We had a wonderful time at the 2014 Jane Austen Festival in Louisville, Kentucky!  The festival is held almost every year at beautiful Locust Grove, a National Historic Landmark, and is purportedly the largest Jane Austen festival in North America.  For one weekend in July, the property is turned into a Regency mecca, complete with literary lectures, costume, hair, and crafting workshops, a delicious "Tea," and a Regency fashion show.

I threw together costumes for the outing--when else could you wander around in Regency outfits, and blend right in??

 

My mother, investigating the Militia encampment:

Here I am, also in the Militia encampment:

Together, in front of the Locust Grove House:

There was a large outdoor area of beautiful vender tents, called the "Shoppes of Meryton," that wrapped around the main house.  These tents included a wide range of products, including everything from parasols to plants:

All ladies of course wear a lace cap indoors, and under their bonnets outdoors, but if you somehow forgot your best cap, never fear, there were some for sale!:

There were also shoppes for blown glass, print-making (and swirling, for kids), and dry goods like fabric, ribbon, and patterns:

Lovely signage here:

 And here:

A dry goods shoppe:

A gentleman's clothier:

The merchants accepted many forms of barter or payment:

This vender was "moving to the continent," so she was having an extra sale (it was the close of the last day):

In the middle of the "Meryton Shoppes" area, two musicians played water-filled glasses:

 These gentlemen offered transport to festival-goers:

...so I enjoyed a sedan-chair ride through the Shoppes:

We reached the other end of the market just in time for a traditional "Punch and Judy" show.

Punch unfortunately somehow managed to kill everyone he introduced us to, including the Baby, Judy, the Doctor, the Policeman, and the Devil...

We preferred the indoor facilities, but one always needs to know where to find a "Necessary Room!"

We attended the Festival on Sunday, so we missed the Saturday Promenade and Evening Ball.  But there were signs everywhere proclaiming that Louisville had succeeded in its attempt to "unofficially" beat the Bath Festival's record for costumed attendance:

It was then time to go to our mid-day Tea, which was delicious!

Costumed servers brought us sandwiches, blueberry lemon scones with clotted cream, and miniature "hot brown," an open-faced local favorite--and, of course, tea!  There were also several kinds of bread pudding and rum cake for dessert:

We were told that all of the beautiful teapots used at the Tea were one person's collection:

There was a choice of four teas with the meal: "The Patience of Miss Price," "Mr. Knightley's Reserve," "Marianne's Wild Abandon," and "Mrs. Jenning's Delight."

These delicious teas were also available at the "Bingley's Teas" tent in the Shoppes, along with many other varieties. 

Each tea is named after an Austen character or literary event, and includes an explanatory caption.  You can find the entire collection here.

 

"Miss Lucy Steele" tea: "Sweet country charm with a bit of a dark side. Lucy Steele joins the party in a black tea with vanilla and apricot."  The website description is more detailed:

Country charm but not quite a peach!

 Miss Lucy Steele joins the party in this black tea that will win you over with juicy apricot, perfect peach, country flowers and overtly polite, sweet vanilla. 

* Tested and loved by fellow Janeites. A festival favorite!

"Mr. Darcy" is described as "Da Hong Pao, Roasted Oolong. Notes of Chestnuts, Plum, and Leather in this Greatly Respected Tea!"

Like the man himself, this elegant, dark tea, grown in rich soil, with a bold beginning yet a smooth finish has a complexity of character that will leave you wishing to know more.
Distinctive notes of leather, chestnut and plum in this well respected Da Hong Pao Oolong. Each steeping introduces you to more of its character. Good for 6 steepings Gong Fu style or 3 British style.

I was told that the tea I had drunk with lunch, "Mr. Knightley's Reserve," a wonderful Earl Grey, had taken the proprietress three years to find. "Gentlemanly Sophistication in an Earl Grey Tradition."

* Best Seller. An Earl Grey that is true and balanced. The Bergamot is smooth and steady. A tea to depend on and love more with each passing cup!

We had a wonderful day.  The weather was breezy and relatively cool, the food and shops were fun, and we were surrounded by people in an amazing variety of beautiful costumes and hats.

Next week, I will show you some of the outfits from the archery demonstration and the wonderful Regency Fashion Show, as well as some pictures from the "Regency Breastknot" workshop I attended.  I will also include some additional detail shots of the costumes I created for the weekend.